Fruit of the Vine, Food For the Soul

The Best Coffee I've Ever Had-and I've had a lot...

If you love coffee like me, you've had it everywhere, every way, and every day.  Starbucks, Peets, Mr Coffee, Denny's, mom's peculated and cowboy coffee in the great outdoors while camping or herding cows.  I consider myself a connoisseur of coffee-not by design, but by attrition.  When you do something everyday, you get good.  

   Coffee is part of the Urban Life, much like pigeons but more like traffic.  Its everywhere and it keeps you moving.  It gets the day started right and it can be the center of a million social funtions.  Its great for first dates too.  I brew it for sake of ease and simplicity in a Mr Coffee, the fancy kind, black and stainless, but upon occasion I'll use the French Press.  I'll do this on weekends and when I want to impress somebody.  A good cup of joe sets the mood for so many things and calms any number of situations.  

   Most people in the city go to Starbucks.  I'm not sure if its because they like it, or because there's one on every corner.  For myself, I stopped drinking Starbucks a long time ago.  I found it bitter, too hot and prone to give me heartburn.  I don't know why, perhaps because its too hot and too bitter!  I feel the same about most commercial coffee houses, from Peets to The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf.  Too bitter, too hot.  My favorite places are the little coffee houses that serve off brands and have eclectic things like old magazines and yesterday's paper hanging around.  Where you might get a real croissant and not one that was baked last week, frozen, and shipped half way across the country.  

   It was at one of these little shops in The Original Farmers Market on Farfax in Los Angeles that I came across the best coffee I've ever tasted.  And so I bought a pound, coarse ground for the French Press.  The name of this coffee is Puerta Verde from Guatemala and it comes from a little coffee roasting company in Santa Cruz CA- Verve Coffee Roasters.  

   This coffee is the smoothest blend I have ever tasted.  Its strong, but not overpowering.  Its nutty with just a hint of sweetness.  If to me, a cup of Starbucks coffee can be compared to a $2 stogie you might pick up at a newsstand, or a bar, sufficient to satisfy a craving but hanging around a little too long, Verve's Puerta Verde is a Dominican Grand Corona- warm, toasty, flavorful and leaving you with no after taste other than the beauty it gave you in the beginning and a soft kiss to send you on your way.  

   And don't get me wrong.  I like a strong coffee.  I love the slick oily-ness of beans roasted black for French or Italian Roast.  I like the way they feel.  I like they way they taste and look and how they smell. I just don't like what the commercial coffee houses do to them.  I think flavors from such a magic bean need to be coaxed, not bludgeoned out.  And to be honest, when I saw this blend, the beans, I had my doubts.  They weren't oily nor were they black.  Just a nutty brown.  And the aroma was very seductive. Not in a blatant, lush way like in a French Roast, but more in a coquettish way.  Like a flirt with glasses that promises much more.   

   From Verve's website:

"Verve Coffee Roasters supports the producers and exporters, roasters and baristas who are paying attention—who are invested in making each cup an authentic, quality experience. They wake up our palates every day to what is possible.

 It’s important to us to forge genuine connections to place: Our beachfront neighborhood, where roasting and cupping have joined surfing as daily communal rituals. San Francisco and the greater Bay Area, where coffee culture has come barreling into its own. Places further a field, like Brooklyn, Pittsburgh and Manhattan that have tasted Verve Coffee and come back for more. And of course, coffee farms in remote villages from Costa Rica to Kenya.

 Wherever a farmer is bent on growing the best green coffee ever, that’s where Verve Coffee comes from. Everything we do—sourcing, roasting, brewing, educating—is about bringing you that place in a cup. Because coffee should be true."

   I love that- "Because coffee should be true".  I might add, The coffee doesn't lie.  You know after the first sip.  I would highly recommend their coffee.  Verve has many different blends from Africa to Latin America and although I have tried only one blend, I am confident that all the others will show the same attention to detail and quality.  I can't wait to continue the adventure and try another one!  You can too, here's their website.  http://www.vervecoffeeroasters.com/

   Try them, I promise you, you won't be disappointed!  

V.Sattui Winery-Sattui Family Red

   A few klicks outside of St Helena California sits a little winery called V.Sattui.  And that little winery produces a little red wine simply called Sattui Family Red.  Actually both of those statements are not exactly true.  Neither the winery, nor the wine are 'little'.  They're both quite big-the first being big in size and offerings and the later being big in flavor.  For those who don't know where St. Helena is, it sits in the center of the most exquisite wine country in America, the Napa Valley.  Right near Napa.  And V.Sattui resides in the same area-literally down the road-from renowned wineries and vineyards such as Rutheford, Peju Province, Robert Mondavi, Hall and Domaine Chandon.  When Anthony Bourdain took 3 great chefs with him from San Francisco through the Napa Valley for a dinner at the French Laundry, one of them, a Frenchman living in New York and who apparently had never been there, remarked, "I cannot believe how much this looks like France, its unreal".  So you get the general picture.  

   Unlike Hall or Turnbull, V.Sattui is not particularly known for its wine only- its known for its gorgeous grounds and tasting room, its extensive deli that features a million cheeses, salamis, soups and great sandwiches, and spacious lawns with picnic tables where you can sit under eucalyptus trees and eat and drink to your heart's content as well.   Although most reviews are stellar, one reviewer on Yelp wrote " This is definitely a tourist trap - and it's not terribly vegan friendly one at that". I had to laugh at that. Vegans don't do well with cheese and salami.  Or prosciutto and pancetta.  But they would like the olives.  I liked it all!  There is ONE little gem that I found there that is truly a delicious wine. Sattui Family Red.  

   You cannot find the wines at V.Sattui at the market, you must either buy them at the winery or order online.  I joined their 'wine of the month' club where they ship me a couple of bottles every month.  While there I tasted the Red, loved it and took home a bottle.  Its the perfect Italian table wine to serve with any hearty pasta dish.  The wine, mostly Zinfandel grapes, is very hearty with plumb and black cherry notes, is fruity but not jammy in the mouth with a bit of vanilla and a subtle oakiness.  Unlike some Napa wines, it is not overwhelmed with oak.  I like drinking wine, not a 2 x 4.  This wine will stand up and compliment any hearty cheese, heavy sauce or roast meat.  I love it!  You will too, I promise you.

 I served this bottle with sausages and peppers over linguini with shavings of parmesan reggiano and ciabatta bread slathered with unsalted butter.  Delicious!

  What makes a good wine is a combination of climite, soil, sun and skill.  The blend is Madder Lake Vineyard Zinfandel, from the Clear Lake area. Sitting at 1800 feet in the northern reaches of the craggy Mayacamas Range, this is a very steep and rocky mountain site with red volcanic soils and very good drainage.  A good Zin needs a lot of sun.  A little about V.Sattui.  It wasFounded in 1885 in San Francisco by Vittorio Sattui (no, not Vito Corlione-we'll leave that to the Coppola Winery), an Italian immigrant, V. Sattui was re–established in St. Helena in 1975 by his great-grandson Dario Sattui. Entering V. Sattui, they greet you with complimentary cheese and food samples in their European-Style Marketplace. You can shop in their gourmet market & deli before venturing into their newly-remodeled Tasting Room. You are then welcome to take a complimentary self-guided tour of the winery’s stone building, underground aging cellars and museum.  Its a very beautiful laid back place.

   This wine is truly one of the best values on the vine at around $20 a bottle.  You can order it here or better yet, take a trip to St. Helena and drink some there as well at V.Sattui.  You won't be disappointed.   http://www.vsattui.com/product/2009-Sattui-Family-Red

http://www.vsattui.com/

Lamb Chops Scottadito

   I posted this recipe before on my site however, lately I have been making and eating this dish a lot and I just saw it on Anthony Bourdain's 'No Reservations', so I thought I would re-post it.     

   Italy brings to mind so many incredible images.  Towering Italian Cypress trees bordering a Tuscan vinyard, wine being drank at an outdoor cafe in the Piazza, Roman ruins crumbling in a nobel decadence, recalling a glorious past.  And there is something mystical and truely golden about the sunlight in Italy.  The way it falls.  The way it lights.  The special quality of Italian sunlight that has inspired artists for two thousand years.

   But when I think of Italy, I think of two things: romance and food.  And don't the two just go together?  There is nothing so bold as an Italian man and nothing so lucious as an Italian woman, and NOTHING beats Italian food.

   Most people when asked what Italian food brings to mind will say some form of pasta, or pizza or spaghetti and meatballs.  It might surprise some to know that a lot of Italian food is roast meats. Especially Northern Italy.  And VERY few would ever mention lamb, although braised lamb shanks Italian style is for sure to die for!  In Rome you will find this dish, Lamb Chops Scottadito, or variations of it, everywhere. Why?  I guess because its soooo good and sooo easy to make.  Try it, I promise you, you'll love it.  Here's what you'll need:

4 lamb chops cut from the rack

Olive oil for dredging and cooking

1 half lemon

parchment paper, (or put the chop in a plastic bag and pound gently)

   After you have seared your pounded chops as per the video, serve them immediately, sizzling hot and squeeze fresh lemon juice on them before enjoying a meal of your dreams!  Why didn't I show the lemon in the video you may ask??  Because I forgot until after I turned off the camera!  Hey, I'm not Scorsese! You can serve this with cooked spinach or as I did with steamed green beans, or a pasta with fava beans, tomatos and garlic.  Here I baked a sweet potato which I served with melted butter and nutmeg.

   One tip about the cooking-it really helps if you have a cast iron pan.  You need to heat the oil pretty high to achieve the quick sear.  BTW, scottadito means 'scorched fingers' in Italian-you're supposed to eat it with your fingers!  

   What is 'poor man's bearnaise sauce'?  Well, if you have an immersion blender simply put some fresh tarragon (I picked mine from my herb garden) and 1 clove of garlic in the processor section, blend, and then add about 3 tablespoons of mayonnaise. Blend until mixed.  Not quite the same, but good nevertheless.  You can pair this with a Pinot Noir or a Merlot. 

Its Winter, time for a comfort food called Risotto!

When the blustery winds of Winter come a calling, its time to sing the comforts of the hearth-a crackling fire, a glass of hearty red and steaming pots of warm food.  Whether its snowing, or as it does here in Southern California, raining, Winter is the time for comfort food.  Always near the top of that list, in my book, is Risotto, an Italian rice dish slow cooked in broth to a creamy consistency.  Now of course, risotto can be made and enjoyed in all the seasons, (so can a roast) but to me its hearty, stick-to-the-ribs goodness bespeaks Winter.  

   Unlike most rice dishes that are cooked in a covered pot where the grain comes out steaming and does not stick together, risotto is cooked in a pot with the lid off.  The variety of rice is different as well. Instead of the common long grain rice, risotto is made with short grain varieties, the most common being Arborio.  Others are Carnaroli and Vialone Nano.  These types absorb liquid more readily and also release starch when stirred.  They become pearly white morsels swimming in a creamy sauce of delectable delight.  Because the sauce is the matrix or glue that holds the mixture together, many other ingredients can be added.  Mushrooms, fish, meats, vegetables, and crustaceans all can be used in a risotto.  

   The basic method is to briefly sauté the pearly grains in butter or olive oil to heat and coat them in a thin film of oil.  At this stage, onion or shallots can be added to impart a slight toasty flavor.  Wine or brandy is then added and reduced by half.  Then a broth that has been simmering in another pot is added by half cups to the rice while gently stirring with a wooden spoon.  At this point it must be stirred almost constantly.  The stirring sheds off the starch molecules on the outside of the grains, which combines with the liquid to create the creamy smoothness.  At the last stage grated Parmigiano-Reggiano is added to increase the smooth texture and add the last touch of flavor. All risottos are made utilizing this basic method and here is one of my favorites, Mushroom Risotto.

2 tbsp butter

5 or 6 cups of low fat chicken broth

2 cups mushrooms cut into 1/2" pieces

1/2 cup brandy or dry white wine

1/3 cup minced shallots or onion

1 3/4 cup arborio or other risotto rice

1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

salt/pepper to taste

chopped Italian Parsley as garnish 

   Heat chicken broth in a large pot until simmering.  In another pot such as a Le Creuset 5 qt. cast iron French oven, melt butter and sauté the shallots and mushrooms for about 5 minutes.  Remember to use a lower heat if using cast iron since it transfers heat very efficiently!  At this point, add the rice and begin to stir coating the grains with the melted butter.  Now add the wine or brandy (you can combine half and half if desired) and reduce by half.  

   At this point ladle a half cup of the simmering broth and stir gently with a wooden spoon remembering to keep the rice from sticking to the sides of the pan.  When the broth is almost completely absorbed, add another half cup and keep repeating the process.  Yes, it takes time.  But doesn't anything of value take time?  Time well spent!  This process will take between 25 and 45 minutes.  You will know when its done, the rice will be creamy but still chewy.  Chewy but not crispy.  It will be al dente.  And there will be a creamy sauce that makes the rice look translucent.  

   Stir in the Parmigiano-Reggiano.  Add salt and pepper.  Serve hot from the pot and garnish with parsley.  Either an Italian white like a Pino Grigio or a fine red like a Borolo if served with sausages pairs with this delicious rice dish.  Buon Appetito!